long distance
West Highland Way: The Ultimate Planning Guide
The WHW is 154km from Milngavie to Fort William and the most popular long-distance trail in Scotland. Here's the honest planning guide — schedule options, accommodation, baggage transfer, budget and the mistakes first-timers make.
Quick Summary
- The West Highland Way is 154km (96 miles) from Milngavie on the edge of Glasgow to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis — Scotland's oldest and most popular long-distance trail
- Most walkers take 7 days — that works out at ~22km per day with ascent ranging from 300m to 600m per stage
- Budget range is wide: £400 DIY camping at the low end, £1,200–£1,800 with accommodation and baggage transfer at the high end
- Plan your trip — our Route Compare tool sits alongside this guide to help you pick between the WHW and Scotland's other long-distance trails
The West Highland Way is the trail most people walk first, which is why every guidebook, tour operator and blog has something to say about it. Most of it is recycled from 2015 and written to sell accommodation packages. This is the actual planning guide.
Quick Answer: The West Highland Way is 154km (96 miles) from Milngavie near Glasgow to Fort William, typically walked in 6 to 8 days. Most walkers take 7 days, covering roughly 22km per day. The season runs from April to October, with June to September being the most reliable weather but also peak midge. Costs range from £400 for a self-sufficient camping trip to £1,800+ for hotel accommodation with baggage transfer. The trail is waymarked throughout, never technically difficult, but long and sustained — more a test of endurance than skill.
What the West Highland Way actually is
The West Highland Way runs from Milngavie (pronounced “mill-guy”) on the northern edge of Glasgow to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis. It opened in 1980 as Scotland's first designated long-distance route and now attracts around 120,000 walkers per year — significantly more than any other Scottish trail. About a third of those walk the whole thing; the rest do individual sections.
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Distance | 154km (96 miles) |
| Total ascent | ~3,150m |
| Waymarking | Thistle symbol throughout — no navigation required |
| Terrain | Forest track, old military road, rough hill path, boardwalk, tarmac |
| Highest point | Devil's Staircase, 548m above Glencoe |
| Typical duration | 6–8 days |
| Start | Milngavie railway station, Glasgow (G62 8QH) |
| End | The Old Fort, Fort William (PH33 6AQ) |
Source: West Highland Way Management Group; NatureScot.
The trail is not technically difficult. There's no scrambling, no exposure, no serious navigation — the thistle waymarkers are maintained to a high standard and you'd have to work to get lost. What the WHW is is long and sustained. A 22km day with a full pack on rough ground is something your feet have strong opinions about by day three, and the WHW asks you to do it for seven days in a row.
Route overview
- Milngavie to Drymen (19km) — urban fringes, forest track, gentle warm-up
- Drymen to Rowardennan (23km) — Conic Hill (the first proper climb), east shore of Loch Lomond
- Rowardennan to Inverarnan (22km) — the hardest day physically, pathless boulder sections along Loch Lomond's east shore
- Inverarnan to Tyndrum (20km) — into the Highlands proper, open glens, old cattle drove roads
- Tyndrum to Kingshouse (30km) — the biggest day, Rannoch Moor crossing, remote and exposed
- Kingshouse to Kinlochleven (14km) — the Devil's Staircase, the trail's highest point, a short but iconic day
- Kinlochleven to Fort William (24km) — Mamores traverse, Glen Nevis, finish at the Old Fort
Most seven-day itineraries follow this breakdown. Eight-day walkers usually split Day 5 (Tyndrum to Kingshouse) into two by stopping at Bridge of Orchy. Shorter itineraries consolidate the early days.
When to walk the West Highland Way
The official season is April to October. Outside that window, many bunkhouses, campsites and some hotels on the route are closed, and daylight hours drop below what's practical for a 22km day.
| Month | Weather | Midges | Daylight | Crowds |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| April | Cold, variable, often snow on high ground | None | Long enough | Quiet |
| May | Improving, drier on average | Light (late May) | 16+ hours | Moderate |
| June | Best weather statistically | Moderate to high | 17+ hours | Busy |
| July | Peak summer | Peak | 17+ hours | Busiest |
| August | Still good, cooling late month | High | 15+ hours | Busy |
| September | Often the best month | Declining | 13 hours | Moderate |
| October | Cold, first snows on high ground | None | Short days | Quiet |
Source: Met Office Scottish climate averages; OutdoorSCOT midge tracking data.
The honest pick for first-timers is May or September. You get tolerable weather, manageable midges, long enough daylight, and much smaller crowds on the busiest sections around Loch Lomond. June is statistically the best weather month but coincides with rising midge activity on the Loch Lomond shore, which is the single worst midge stretch of the whole trail.
How many days to take
Schedules cluster around three options:
6 days — the fit walker schedule
Averages 26km per day with a 30km+ day in the middle. Only suitable for walkers who regularly do 20km day hikes and are confident on long days. No rest day; if weather closes in, you've no buffer. Best for experienced long-distance walkers who've done this before.
7 days — the default
Averages 22km per day with one long day (Tyndrum to Kingshouse, 30km). Most bookable accommodation packages are built around a 7-day schedule. This is what we'd recommend for most first-time WHW walkers who can walk 22km a day without being broken at the end.
8 days — the comfortable schedule
Averages 19km per day. Splits the long Rannoch Moor day at Bridge of Orchy. Gives you time to enjoy the scenery, factor in weather delays, and recover. Best for walkers in less-than-peak fitness, walkers carrying heavy packs, and anyone who wants to actually look around.
9+ days — with rest days or side trips
Some walkers bag Ben Nevis or explore Glencoe on rest days. Others just want the extra margin. If you've got the time and the budget, nine days makes the whole experience more enjoyable.
The 7-day schedule, stage by stage
| Day | Stage | Distance | Ascent | Time | Key feature |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Milngavie → Drymen | 19km | 200m | 4–5h | Gentle warm-up on forest track. Carbeth Huts passes at 5km. First real view at Craigallian Loch |
| 2 | Drymen → Rowardennan | 23km | 400m | 6–7h | Conic Hill (361m) — first climb, dramatic view into Loch Lomond. Balmaha for lunch |
| 3 | Rowardennan → Inverarnan | 22km | 500m | 7–8h | The hardest day. East shore of Loch Lomond with long pathless boulder sections. Slow progress. Inversnaid Hotel at 11km |
| 4 | Inverarnan → Tyndrum | 20km | 450m | 5–6h | Into the Highlands proper. Old military road sections. Crianlarich at 10km, Tyndrum at 20km |
| 5 | Tyndrum → Kingshouse | 30km | 500m | 7–9h | The longest day. Bridge of Orchy at 11km for an early lunch. Rannoch Moor crossing — exposed, remote, magnificent |
| 6 | Kingshouse → Kinlochleven | 14km | 550m | 4–5h | The most iconic day. Devil's Staircase (548m) is the trail's highest point. Short but with serious weather exposure |
| 7 | Kinlochleven → Fort William | 24km | 600m | 6–7h | Final day. Forest climb out of Kinlochleven, long traverse beneath the Mamores, finish at the Old Fort in Fort William |
| Total | 154km | ~3,150m | ~48h walking |
Distances and ascent from the Long Distance Walkers Association WHW profile, verified against OS mapping.
Try it yourself
Our free Route Compare
lets you put the WHW side-by-side with the other Scottish long-distance trails — Great Glen Way, Cape Wrath Trail, Southern Upland Way, Speyside Way — to see how they compare on distance, difficulty, average rainfall, accommodation availability and wild camping legality. Useful if you're choosing between trails for a first long-distance walk.
No sign-up required.Accommodation: the three main approaches
Approach 1 — Wild camping (free)
Legal under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code on most of the route, except within the Loch Lomond Camping Management Zones from 1 March to 30 September (see callout above — permits required, £4.50/night). Outside those zones, you can pitch on most unenclosed land with small tent, small group, 2-3 nights maximum, Leave No Trace.
Wild camping saves you around £700 on a 7-night trip compared to hotel accommodation. It also adds the weight of a tent, sleeping bag, mat and stove to your pack — typically 4-6kg. Most wild campers pack light stove meals and top up supplies at Drymen, Inversnaid, Tyndrum and Kinlochleven.
Approach 2 — Campsites and bunkhouses (mid-budget)
Roughly £15–£35 per night. Every major stage has at least one campsite or bunkhouse within walking distance: Drymen Camping, Milarrochy Bay, Rowardennan, Beinglas Farm (Inverarnan), Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy, Kingshouse, Kinlochleven and Fort William. Most accept bookings online. July and August book out — reserve weeks ahead.
Approach 3 — Hotels, B&Bs and packages (high-budget)
£80–£150 per night per person in peak season. Macs Adventure, Absolute Escapes and Contours all sell packaged 6-8 day WHW trips with hotels booked in advance and baggage transfer included. Price range £900–£1,800+ depending on accommodation standard and duration. These packages are the easiest way to do the WHW with zero logistics.
Baggage transfer
Three operators handle WHW baggage transfer: Travel-Lite, Amstramgram and Ginger Routes. All three collect your main pack from your accommodation each morning and deliver it to your next accommodation by 4pm. Price is around £85–£110 per bag for the full 7-stage trip. You walk with a daypack containing only lunch, water, waterproofs and a warm layer.
Baggage transfer is the single biggest comfort upgrade on a WHW trip. Carrying 4kg is a different experience from carrying 15kg, especially on the long Rannoch Moor day. If your budget can stretch to it, it's worth more than a nicer hotel.
Kit list for the WHW
Full three-layer walking kit plus specifics for a multi-day self-supported trip. The WHW is not a winter mountain environment but Scottish hill weather can still deliver hypothermia on Rannoch Moor in August — dress for it.
| Category | Item | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Base | Two synthetic/merino long-sleeve tops | Rotate — one drying in the pack, one on |
| Mid | Light fleece or grid fleece | Active warmth layer |
| Insulation | Synthetic puffy jacket | Camp/summit warmth — synthetic not down because Scottish wet |
| Shell | Waterproof hardshell jacket with taped seams | Non-negotiable |
| Shell | Waterproof overtrousers with full side zips | As above |
| Legs | Softshell walking trousers | Never cotton or jeans |
| Feet | Broken-in walking boots | Ankle support, Vibram-type sole |
| Feet | 2 pairs merino walking socks + liners | Dry rotation |
| Head | Hat, buff, light gloves | Year-round essentials in Scotland |
| Pack | 45-60L rucksack (wild camping), 25-35L (baggage transfer) | Size to trip style |
| Sleep | 3-season sleeping bag + mat + tent | Camping only |
| Cook | Gas stove + pan + mug + cutlery | Camping or self-catering |
| Navigation | Paper OS map (sheets 347, 348, 364, 377, 384, 392) + GPX backup | Thistle waymarks are good but redundancy is cheap |
| Safety | First aid kit, head torch, emergency foil blanket | Small, light, always in pack |
| Admin | Midge net, Smidge, water purification tabs | Summer months |
See our What to Wear Hillwalking in Scotland guide for the full layering system rationale.
Getting to Milngavie and home from Fort William
The WHW is one of the few Scottish long-distance trails that's genuinely easy to do without a car. Start and end are both on railway lines.
- Getting to Milngavie: Train from Glasgow Queen Street (low level) or Glasgow Central via Partick. Takes ~25 minutes, runs every 30 minutes, costs around £4. Milngavie station is 50m from the official WHW start point.
- Getting home from Fort William: Train on the West Highland Line from Fort William to Glasgow Queen Street (4 hours, ~£35) or Citylink bus to Glasgow Buchanan Street (3 hours, ~£25). The train is significantly more scenic — the final hour runs across Rannoch Moor and Loch Lomond, effectively showing you everything you just walked.
Flying in? Glasgow International Airport is 30 minutes from Milngavie by taxi or a bus + train combination via Glasgow city centre. Fort William has no airport — Inverness (2 hours by bus) is the nearest.
Budget: three realistic scenarios
| Item | Wild camping | Mid-budget | Hotels + package |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation (7 nights) | £0 (wild camp) + £13.50 (Loch Lomond permits) | £140 (avg £20/night campsite/bunkhouse) | £700 (avg £100/night hotel) |
| Baggage transfer | £0 | £90 (optional) | £90 (included) |
| Food — self-catered | £60 | £80 | — |
| Food — cafes and pubs | — | £80 | £210 |
| Travel (Glasgow → Milngavie, Fort William → Glasgow) | £35 | £35 | £35 |
| Kit top-ups (gas, repellent, blister plasters) | £15 | £15 | £15 |
| Total | £123.50 | £440 | £1,050 |
Prices are April 2026 mid-range estimates and vary by operator, season and booking timing.
Published package prices (Macs Adventure et al) typically sit around £900–£1,800 for 7-8 day trips depending on hotel standard. A DIY trip sleeping in hotels typically undercuts the package by 15–25%, at the cost of doing all the booking work yourself.
📬 One email a month. Trail conditions, seasonal kit advice and new long-distance trail guides. We send one email per month, timed to the season.
Common mistakes first-timers make
- Underestimating Loch Lomond's east shore. Every year, walkers plan 22km days for Rowardennan to Inverarnan and discover the pathless boulder sections halve their pace. Budget 8 hours for this stage.
- Booking expensive hotels on Day 7 and cheap bunkhouses on Day 1. Reverse it. You want comfort at the end when you're tired, not the start when you're fresh.
- Skipping wet weather gear in June or September. Scottish weather. Always.
- Packing cotton. See the layering guide. Cotton kills in Scottish conditions.
- Not booking Camping Management Zone permits in advance. Summer weekends book out weeks ahead. Do this before anything else.
- Taking the wrong boots. New boots that aren't broken in will ruin a WHW trip by Day 3. Walk 50+km in them at home first.
- Planning the cheapest option when you can't carry the weight. If you're not used to walking with a 15kg pack, baggage transfer is the difference between finishing and not.
Try it yourself
Our free Gear Checklist Generator
builds a Scotland-specific multi-day hillwalking kit list including WHW-relevant extras — midge net, Loch Lomond permit info, baggage transfer decision tree, resupply point reminders. Takes 30 seconds. Prints to one page for the fridge.
No sign-up required.Frequently Asked Questions
How long does the West Highland Way take?
Most walkers complete the West Highland Way in 6 to 8 days, with 7 days being the standard itinerary. A 7-day schedule averages 22km per day with one long day (Tyndrum to Kingshouse, 30km). Faster walkers do it in 5–6 days, and walkers taking rest days or side trips (Ben Nevis, Glencoe) often stretch it to 9–10 days. The 7-day schedule is the default for most packaged trips and the one we'd recommend for a first WHW.
When is the best time to walk the West Highland Way?
May and September are the best months for first-timers. Both give tolerable weather, manageable midge levels, long enough daylight, and smaller crowds than peak summer. June has the best weather statistically but coincides with rising midge activity on the Loch Lomond east shore, which is the worst midge stretch of the whole trail. April and October are walkable but colder with shorter daylight.
How much does the West Highland Way cost?
A self-sufficient wild camping trip can be done for around £400 including travel and food. A mid-budget trip with campsite and bunkhouse accommodation plus some pub meals comes in around £600–£800. A full hotel-and-package trip ranges from £900 to £1,800+ depending on hotel standard and whether you include baggage transfer. Baggage transfer alone is around £85–£110 for the full trail and is the single biggest comfort upgrade.
Do I need to book accommodation in advance on the WHW?
In peak season (June to August), yes — book at least 6 weeks ahead, particularly for bunkhouses and campsites on the Loch Lomond stretch. Outside peak season, you can often walk up to bunkhouses without booking, but Fridays and Saturdays book out year-round on the busier sections. Loch Lomond Camping Management Zone permits must be booked in advance if you're wild camping there between 1 March and 30 September.
How fit do I need to be to walk the West Highland Way?
You need to be able to walk 20km in a day with a loaded pack without being broken at the end. Practice with three or four 20km+ walks in the months before your trip, ideally on varied terrain and in bad weather. You do not need to be a runner, climber or Munro-bagger — the WHW is long and sustained rather than technically hard. The key fitness question is whether your feet and hips can handle 22km per day for seven days in a row.
What should I pack for the West Highland Way?
Full three-layer Scottish walking kit (base, mid, shell jacket and overtrousers), two pairs of merino socks, broken-in walking boots, a light synthetic insulation jacket for camp, hat and gloves, midge net and repellent in summer, a first aid kit, head torch, and a paper map plus GPX backup. If wild camping, add a 3-season sleeping bag, sleeping mat, tent and gas stove. Full checklist in our Hillwalking Layering Guide.
Can I walk the WHW alone?
Yes — the WHW is probably the safest long-distance walk in Scotland to do solo. The trail is waymarked throughout, busy enough that you'll see other walkers every hour, and serviced by villages every 20–30km for resupply and emergency exit. Tell someone your itinerary and check in with them at the end of each day. A satellite messenger (Garmin inReach or similar) is sensible on the Rannoch Moor stage but not essential.
Related Articles
- What to Wear Hillwalking in Scotland — the full layering system that applies to every WHW day
- Wild Camping in Scotland: What the Access Code Actually Means — the legal basis for wild camping along the trail
- Scottish Midge Survival Guide — essential reading for a June or July WHW
- Long-Distance Trails Hub — all Scotland's major long-distance walks with comparison data
- OutdoorSCOT Tools — Route Compare, Gear Checklist Generator and other planning tools
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional safety instruction. Scottish hill conditions change rapidly — always check the weather forecast (MWIS West Highlands) before starting each day, carry appropriate equipment, and know your limits. Accommodation prices, operator fees and permit costs are April 2026 estimates and change with season and booking timing. OutdoorSCOT is not liable for any incidents arising from the use of this information.
Sources
- West Highland Way official website — West Highland Way Management Group
- Scottish Outdoor Access Code — NatureScot
- Camping Management Zones — Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park
- Long Distance Walkers Association WHW profile — LDWA
- Mountain Weather Information Service West Highlands — MWIS