Affric Kintail Way: Scotland's Most Underrated Long-Distance Trail

Quick Summary

• 44 miles (71km) from Drumnadrochit to Morvich through Glen Affric, widely considered the most beautiful glen in Scotland — ancient Caledonian pine forest, remote lochs and a long road-free crossing to Kintail
• Most walkers take 4 days, carrying wild camping kit or using a mix of B&Bs, a remote youth hostel and a bothy
• Moderate difficulty — good tracks and paths, highest point only 339m, but 18 road-free miles between the River Affric car park and Gleann Lichd with no phone signal and no bail-out
• Check your daylight — our Daylight Hours Planner shows how much walking time you have at this latitude, which matters when the middle stages are long and there is nowhere to cut short

The Affric Kintail Way is the trail that experienced Scottish hillwalkers recommend to each other but that never appears on the lists tourists read. It runs 44 miles from Drumnadrochit on Loch Ness to Morvich at the head of Loch Duich, threading through Glen Affric — a glen that most people who have walked through it consider the most beautiful in the country.

The reason it stays quiet is the reason it stays good. Beyond the River Affric car park there is no road until the far end of Gleann Lichd. Expect no phone signal along Loch Affric and over into Kintail. The only bookable roof between Cannich and Morvich is the youth hostel at Alltbeithe — one of the most remote in Britain. There are no cafes at lunchtime. There is Caledonian pine forest, open glens, red deer, and silence.

Quick Answer: The Affric Kintail Way is a 44-mile (71km) coast-to-coast trail from Drumnadrochit on Loch Ness to Morvich on Loch Duich, through Glen Affric. Most walkers take 4 days on the official stages. The route is waymarked and follows good tracks and paths, and its highest point is only 339m, but the 18 miles from the River Affric car park over to Gleann Lichd have no road and no easy escape. Best months are May-June and September. You need wild camping kit or a booking at the Alltbeithe youth hostel, the only bookable roof between Cannich and Morvich.

Route overview

The Affric Kintail Way covers 44 miles with about 1,630m of total ascent by the operator's four stage figures — its own homepage says over 6,000ft and its FAQ almost 1,800m, so treat the total as approximate. It is waymarked throughout and follows forestry roads, tracks and footpaths.

The route crosses Scotland from the Great Glen to the west coast — from Drumnadrochit on Loch Ness, through Glen Urquhart to Cannich, up Glen Affric past Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin and Loch Affric to Alltbeithe, then west through Fionngleann past Camban bothy, over the low watershed at Cnoc Biodaig and down Gleann Lichd to Morvich.

Key stats (from the official route website):

• Distance: 44 miles / 71km
• Total ascent: about 1,630m
• Highest point: 339m, on the final stage beyond Camban bothy
• Duration: 3-5 days (4 is standard)
• Start: Drumnadrochit (Loch Ness Hub)
• Finish: Morvich (NTS Kintail Ranger Station, near Shiel Bridge)
• Maps: OS Landranger 26, 25 and 33

Day-by-day itinerary

These are the four official stages. The figures are from the official Affric Kintail Way website.

Day 1: Drumnadrochit to Cannich (13.9 miles / 22km)

The gentlest day, with 559m of climbing. Craigmonie Woodland out of Drumnadrochit, then forestry roads through Glen Urquhart, past Corrimony (worth the detour for the chambered cairn), and into Strathglass. Rolling farmland and commercial forestry — pleasant but unremarkable.

Cannich has a campsite, B&Bs and a small shop with limited stock. This is the last settlement on the route. Stock up here or, better, in Inverness before you start.

Some walkers drive to Cannich and start there, cutting the route to 30 miles and three days. This skips the least interesting section but loses the coast-to-coast logic.

Day 2: Cannich to the River Affric car park (12.1 miles / 19.5km)

The day the trail becomes what it is, with 583m of climbing. From Cannich the route climbs Mullardoch Road and follows the forestry road above Comar Wood, drops to Dog Falls, then climbs through Scots pine to the Glen Affric viewpoint above the Beinn a' Mheadhoin dam. It follows the forest road along Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin to the Forestry and Land Scotland car park at River Affric.

There is nowhere to stay at the car park. You have three options: arrange a pick-up back to Cannich with your accommodation or a local taxi and return in the morning; carry on and wild camp along Loch Affric; or keep going all the way to Alltbeithe, which makes Cannich to Alltbeithe a 20.5-mile (33km) day. Do not plan that as an easy day.

Day 3: River Affric car park to Alltbeithe (8.4 miles / 13.5km)

From the car park the route follows the forest road along the south side of Loch Affric, past Affric Lodge across the water and the old settlement at Athnamulloch, crosses the River Affric at Strawberry Cottage, and follows the river west for about 6km to Glen Affric Youth Hostel at Alltbeithe. Only 218m of climbing.

This is the ancient Caledonian pine forest the route is known for — Scots pine, birch and rowan, part of the Glen Affric National Nature Reserve, where Trees for Life and Forestry and Land Scotland are expanding the native woodland. On a still morning the loch reflecting the pines is one of the finest sights in Scotland.

The hostel sits alone where three glens meet, with no road to it. Check opening dates and book with Hostelling Scotland well in advance.

Day 4: Alltbeithe to Morvich (11 miles / 15.7km)

From the hostel the path heads west, ignoring the high path that climbs into Gleann Gniomhaidh, crosses the Allt Gleann Gniomhaidh by a footbridge and goes into Fionngleann. Camban bothy (Mountain Bothies Association) soon comes into view — it is a short way along this final stage, not a day's walk from the hostel. Beyond it the path crosses the watershed at Cnoc Biodaig, the highest point of the route at 339m.

The descent is the roughest part of the walk: a steep section above the Allt Grannda, with streams to cross coming off Beinn Fhada, before the path reaches Gleann Lichd and the River Croe by two wooden bridges. From Glenlicht House the route runs the length of Gleann Lichd, with Beinn Fhada on one side and the Five Sisters of Kintail on the other, to the road end near the Kintail Outdoor Centre and a short road walk to the NTS Ranger Station at Morvich. Expect sheep in the last section; keep dogs under close control.

Morvich has a campsite. The operator says bus travellers alight at Allt a' Chruin on the A87, roughly 1.5 miles by road from the NTS Centre. On a clear day you can see Skye from the descent.

Why this route is special

The Caledonian pine forest. Glen Affric holds one of the largest surviving remnants of the ancient forest that once covered the Highlands. These are wild Scots pines, some hundreds of years old, not plantation conifers. The forest is being actively expanded — young native trees are spreading across hillsides that were bare moorland a generation ago.

The remoteness. Between the River Affric car park and the road end in Gleann Lichd — about 18 miles — there is no road and you should expect no phone signal. The path is good and the distance manageable, but you are genuinely self-reliant for two days. In an era where most long-distance trails have a cafe every five miles, this is rare.

The coast-to-coast crossing. In 44 miles you cross from the Great Glen to the Atlantic coast. The landscape changes completely: farmland to native forest to open mountain to west coast seaboard. You feel the width of Scotland.

Navigation and terrain

The trail is waymarked. In good visibility you can follow the markers without difficulty. Take care at Alltbeithe: the high path into Gleann Gniomhaidh is not the route — the Affric Kintail Way goes west into Fionngleann past Camban bothy. In cloud, the open ground over Cnoc Biodaig and the steep descent into Gleann Lichd need confident map and compass work.

Carry OS Landranger 26, 25 and 33 plus a compass. A GPS device or phone with offline maps is sensible backup. Do not rely on phone signal anywhere west of the River Affric car park.

Terrain is mostly firm forestry road and track for the first three stages, with some wet sections, then a rougher footpath with a steep, rocky descent and small stream crossings on the final stage. The main rivers are bridged.

When to go

May to mid-June is the best window. Long daylight (17+ hours in late May), wildflowers, atmospheric pine forest, and the midges have not yet reached full strength.

Late June to August brings savage midges. Glen Affric is sheltered, wooded and damp — prime midge habitat. You will need a head net and industrial-strength repellent.

September is the second-best window. Midges declining, birch turning gold, autumn light in the pines. Shorter days (13-14 hours) make the longer stages tighter.

October to April is not recommended. Daylight is insufficient for the longer stages, and the Alltbeithe hostel may not be open — check with Hostelling Scotland.

The route runs through deer stalking country. Between mid-August and mid-October, check the Heading for the Scottish Hills website for stalking activity. Scottish access rights still apply during stalking, but the Access Code asks you to follow reasonable advice from the estate on where to walk, so check before you go.

Accommodation

The night-by-night version, including the bothy and hostel options between Cannich and Morvich, is in the Affric Kintail Way accommodation guide.

Drumnadrochit — B&Bs, hostels and hotels. Plentiful thanks to Loch Ness tourism.

Cannich — a handful of B&Bs and a campsite. Book ahead. Also your base for the end of stage 2, with a pick-up from the River Affric car park.

Glen Affric Youth Hostel (Alltbeithe) — remote and self-catering, with no road to it. Check opening dates and book with Hostelling Scotland well in advance. The only bookable accommodation between Cannich and Morvich.

Camban bothy — free MBA bothy in Fionngleann, a short way west of Alltbeithe on the final stage. First come, first served. Carry camping kit as backup.

Morvich — a campsite. Shiel Bridge, along the A87, has more accommodation.

Wild camping — camp responsibly anywhere under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. Best pitches are along Loch Affric among the pines (the usual answer to the end of stage 2), near Alltbeithe, and in Gleann Lichd.

The Affric Kintail Way guidebook (Cicerone Press)(affiliate link) by Paul and Helen Webster covers the full route with mapping extracts and stage-by-stage descriptions. Worth carrying alongside the OS maps.

Getting there and logistics

To Drumnadrochit: local buses run from Inverness along the A82; check the current Stagecoach timetable for the route and times before you travel. Inverness has ScotRail trains from Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen, plus Citylink coaches.

From Morvich: Citylink coaches on the A87 run between Skye and Inverness or Fort William. The trail website says bus travellers alight at Allt a' Chruin, roughly 1.5 miles by road from the NTS Centre at Morvich. Check current times with Citylink.

Car logistics: Park in Drumnadrochit, walk the trail, take the coach from the A87 to Inverness, then the bus back to Drumnadrochit.

Baggage transfer: The trail website points walkers to Loch Ness Hub for baggage transfers between Drumnadrochit and Kintail. No vehicle can reach Alltbeithe, so ask exactly which nights they can cover before booking — for the middle of the route you may carry everything.

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Kit list for 4 days

You must be self-sufficient for the remote middle section:

• Rucksack — 50-65L for wild camping, 40-50L for hostel/bothy
• Tent, sleeping bag and mat — carry even if planning on Camban bothy
• Waterproof jacket and trousers
• Walking boots — broken in, waterproof
• Trekking poles — recommended for the steep descent into Gleann Lichd
• OS maps (Landranger 26 and 33) and compass
• GPS or phone with offline maps as backup
• Stove, fuel and cooking kit — no food available between Cannich and Morvich
• 4 days of food — no resupply on the route
• Water bottle and purification
• First aid kit — Alltbeithe is hours from the nearest road in either direction
• Midge head net and repellent — June to August, non-negotiable

The Falls of Glomach detour

The Falls of Glomach are among the highest waterfalls in Britain — a 113m drop into a narrow gorge, hidden in the hills north of the route between Glen Affric and Kintail. They are not part of the Affric Kintail Way and are not a quick detour from it.

The usual way in is a separate day out from Morvich, via Dorusduain and the Bealach na Sroine. The path is steep, the gorge rim needs a head for heights, and the rocks are slippery when wet. If you want to see them, add a day at Morvich at the end of the walk and plan it with a map, rather than squeezing it into the final stage.

Frequently Asked Questions

How hard is the Affric Kintail Way?

Moderate. The route is forest road, track and footpath, and its highest point is only 339m, on the watershed beyond Camban bothy. What makes it serious is the remoteness: from the River Affric car park to the road end in Gleann Lichd there is no road at all, and the descent into Gleann Lichd is steep and rough. If you can walk 14 miles a day with a loaded pack and navigate in poor visibility, you are ready.

How long does the Affric Kintail Way take?

Most walkers take 4 days, following the official stages. The catch is that the second stage ends at the River Affric car park, where there is nowhere to stay, so you either arrange a pick-up back to Cannich, wild camp along Loch Affric, or walk the 20.5 miles from Cannich to Alltbeithe in one day. Strong walkers who do that can finish in 3 days.

Do I need to book Alltbeithe hostel in advance?

Yes. Glen Affric Youth Hostel at Alltbeithe is the only bookable roof between Cannich and Morvich, and it is small. Check its opening dates and book with Hostelling Scotland as soon as your dates are fixed. If it is full, your options are Camban bothy (free, first come, first served) a short way further west, or wild camping.

Can I do the Affric Kintail Way in winter?

Not recommended. Daylight is too short for the longer stages, the Alltbeithe hostel may not be open, and snow and ice on the rough descent into Gleann Lichd make it a different proposition. Experienced winter walkers with full winter kit can do it, but plan it as a winter expedition, not a summer trail.

Which direction should I walk the Affric Kintail Way?

East to west (Drumnadrochit to Morvich). It puts the prevailing wind at your back, saves the most dramatic scenery for the final days, and makes logistics simpler — buses to Drumnadrochit from Inverness are more frequent than services from Morvich.

Related Articles

• West Highland Way Planning Guide — the trail most walkers complete before the Affric Kintail Way
• Cape Wrath Trail: Complete Planning Guide — the next step up in difficulty and remoteness
• The Essential Wild Camping Gear List for Scotland — full kit breakdown for multi-day wild camping
• Scottish Bothies for Beginners — free shelters including Camban bothy on the route
• Naismith's Rule Calculator — realistic timing for the mountain stages

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This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional instruction or safety guidance. The Affric Kintail Way crosses remote mountain terrain with no road access, no phone signal and no shelter for extended sections. The ground between Alltbeithe and Gleann Lichd is remote and exposed, and conditions change rapidly. Always check the mountain weather forecast (MWIS) before setting out, carry appropriate navigation equipment, and plan stages according to your fitness and experience. Deer stalking takes place on surrounding estates mid-August to mid-October — check Heading for the Scottish Hills before your trip. OutdoorSCOT is not liable for any incidents arising from the use of this information.

Sources

• Affric Kintail Way — official trail website — route overview and the four stage pages (distances, ascent and route line, read 2026-10-27)
• Hostelling Scotland — Glen Affric Youth Hostel (Alltbeithe) booking
• Forestry and Land Scotland — Glen Affric — NNR information
• Mountain Bothies Association — Camban bothy
• Heading for the Scottish Hills — deer stalking updates
• Mountain Weather Information Service — MWIS
• Ordnance Survey Maps — Ordnance Survey
• Scottish Outdoor Access Code — NatureScot