long distance
Affric Kintail Way: Scotland's Most Underrated Long-Distance Trail
Plan the Affric Kintail Way — 44 miles through Glen Affric, Scotland's most beautiful glen, from Drumnadrochit to the west coast at Morvich.
Quick Summary
- 44 miles (71km) from Drumnadrochit to Morvich through Glen Affric, widely considered the most beautiful glen in Scotland — ancient Caledonian pine forest, remote lochs and a mountain pass with no road access
- Most walkers take 4 days, carrying wild camping kit or using a mix of B&Bs, a remote SYHA hostel and a bothy
- Moderate difficulty — well-pathed for most of its length with one significant mountain pass (Bealach an Sgairne, 518m), but the middle sections are genuinely remote with no phone signal and no bail-out
- Check your daylight — our Daylight Hours Planner shows how much walking time you have at this latitude, which matters when the middle stages are long and there is nowhere to cut short
The Affric Kintail Way is the trail that experienced Scottish hillwalkers recommend to each other but that never appears on the lists tourists read. It runs 44 miles from Drumnadrochit on Loch Ness to Morvich at the head of Loch Duich, threading through Glen Affric — a glen that most people who have walked through it consider the most beautiful in the country.
The reason it stays quiet is the reason it stays good. The middle two days have no road access. There is no phone signal from the east end of Loch Affric to the descent into Kintail. The only roof between Cannich and Morvich is Alltbeithe youth hostel — one of the most remote in Britain. There are no cafes at lunchtime. There is Caledonian pine forest, open mountain passes, red deer, and silence.
Quick Answer: The Affric Kintail Way is a 44-mile (71km) coast-to-coast trail from Drumnadrochit on Loch Ness to Morvich on Loch Duich, through Glen Affric. Most walkers take 4 days. The route is waymarked and follows good paths, but the central section over the Bealach an Sgairne (518m) is genuinely remote with no road access and no easy escape. Best months are May-June and September. You need wild camping kit or a booking at Alltbeithe SYHA hostel — it fills up fast and is the only accommodation for a 25-mile stretch.
Route overview
The Affric Kintail Way covers 44 miles with approximately 1,800m of total ascent. Established in 2015 and waymarked throughout, it follows forestry tracks, stalkers' paths, lochside trails and a mountain pass.
The route crosses Scotland from the Great Glen to the west coast — from sea level at Drumnadrochit, through Glen Urquhart and Strathglass, into the heart of Glen Affric, over the Bealach an Sgairne (518m), and down through Gleann Lichd to Morvich.
Key stats:
- Distance: 44 miles / 71km
- Total ascent: approximately 1,800m
- Highest point: Bealach an Sgairne, 518m
- Duration: 3-5 days (4 is standard)
- Start: Drumnadrochit (Loch Ness)
- Finish: Morvich (Loch Duich, near Shiel Bridge)
- Maps: OS Landranger 26 and 33
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1: Drumnadrochit to Cannich (14 miles / 22km)
The gentlest day. Quiet lanes and forestry tracks through Glen Urquhart, past Corrimony RSPB reserve (worth the detour for the chambered cairn), and into Strathglass. Rolling farmland and commercial forestry — pleasant but unremarkable.
Cannich has a campsite, B&Bs, the Slaters Arms pub and a small shop with limited stock. This is the last settlement on the route. Stock up here or, better, in Inverness before you start.
Some walkers drive to Cannich and start there, cutting the route to 30 miles and three days. This skips the least interesting section but loses the coast-to-coast logic.
Day 2: Cannich to Alltbeithe (12 miles / 19km)
The day the trail becomes what it is. From Cannich, follow the single-track road 5 miles up Glen Affric to the car park where the public road ends.
The path runs along the south shore of Loch Affric through ancient Caledonian pine forest — Scots pine, birch and rowan that have been here since the ice retreated. The loch reflects the pines and the mountains. On a still morning it is one of the finest sights in Scotland. This is the Glen Affric National Nature Reserve, where Trees for Life and Forestry and Land Scotland are actively expanding the native forest.
Beyond Loch Affric, the path continues west to Alltbeithe SYHA hostel, sitting alone at the junction of three glens. No road access, no electricity, no phone signal, no warden — just bunk beds, a wood-burning stove and basic cooking facilities. Book through the SYHA website well in advance.
Day 3: Alltbeithe to Camban bothy (10 miles / 16km)
The mountain day. The path climbs south-west up Gleann Gnìomhaidh then ascends steeply to the Bealach an Sgairne at 518m — the crux of the route. In clear weather, views stretch from the Kintail ridges to Skye. In cloud, you navigate by path and compass across exposed terrain.
The descent is steep and rough. The path drops into Gleann Lichd, where Camban bothy (Mountain Bothies Association) provides free basic shelter — a two-room stone building with a fireplace and sleeping platforms.
Fit walkers can combine Days 3 and 4 into a long 18-mile push to Morvich. Most prefer the split, especially to allow the Falls of Glomach detour.
Day 4: Camban to Morvich (8 miles / 13km)
The descent. From Camban, Gleann Lichd leads steadily downhill with the Five Sisters of Kintail rising to the south and Beinn Fhada to the north. The vegetation changes from open hillside to birch woodland to farmland.
Morvich has an NTS campsite. Shiel Bridge, 2 miles east, has a shop, bunkhouse and Citylink bus stop. On a clear day you can see Skye from the descent.
Try it yourself
Our free Daylight Hours Planner
shows exactly how many walking hours you have at Glen Affric's latitude — in late May you get over 17 hours of usable daylight, but by late September it drops below 13. On the long middle days, this matters.
No sign-up required.Why this route is special
The Caledonian pine forest. Glen Affric holds one of the largest surviving remnants of the ancient forest that once covered the Highlands. These are wild Scots pines, some hundreds of years old, not plantation conifers. The forest is being actively expanded — young native trees are spreading across hillsides that were bare moorland a generation ago.
The remoteness. Between the Glen Affric road end and Morvich — roughly 25 miles — there is no vehicle access, no phone signal, no mains electricity. The path is good and the distance manageable, but you are genuinely self-reliant for two days. In an era where most long-distance trails have a cafe every five miles, this is rare.
The coast-to-coast crossing. In 44 miles you cross from the Great Glen to the Atlantic coast. The landscape changes completely: farmland to native forest to open mountain to west coast seaboard. You feel the width of Scotland.
Navigation and terrain
The trail is waymarked with wooden posts. In good visibility you can follow them without difficulty. Navigation becomes serious in poor visibility on the Bealach an Sgairne — the approach and descent require confident map and compass work, and a navigation error puts you into the wrong glen with no easy return.
Carry OS Landranger 26 and 33 plus a compass. A GPS device or phone with offline maps is sensible backup. Do not rely on phone signal — there is none between the Glen Affric car park and Glen Shiel.
Terrain ranges from firm forestry track (Day 1) to occasionally boggy lochside path (Day 2) to rough, steep mountain path (Day 3) to well-graded estate track (Day 4). River crossings are minimal — main watercourses are bridged.
When to go
May to mid-June is the best window. Long daylight (17+ hours in late May), wildflowers, atmospheric pine forest, and the midges have not yet reached full strength. Snow is possible on the bealach into early May.
Late June to August brings savage midges. Glen Affric is sheltered, wooded and damp — prime midge habitat. You will need a head net and industrial-strength repellent.
September is the second-best window. Midges declining, birch turning gold, autumn light in the pines. Shorter days (13-14 hours) make the longer stages tighter.
October to April is not recommended. The bealach is exposed, daylight is insufficient, and Alltbeithe closes for the season.
The route runs through deer stalking country. Between mid-August and mid-October, check the Heading for the Scottish Hills website for stalking activity. The route is a right of way — you cannot be prevented from walking it — but courtesy and safety suggest checking.
Accommodation
Drumnadrochit — B&Bs, hostels and hotels. Plentiful thanks to Loch Ness tourism.
Cannich — Slaters Arms, a handful of B&Bs, Cannich Caravan and Camping Park. Book ahead.
Alltbeithe SYHA hostel — 24 beds, off-grid, self-catering. Open April to October. Book well in advance — it fills months ahead. The only bookable accommodation between Cannich and Morvich (30 miles).
Camban bothy — free MBA bothy in Gleann Lichd. First come, first served. Carry camping kit as backup.
Morvich — NTS campsite. Shiel Bridge (2 miles) has the Kintail Lodge Hotel and a bunkhouse.
Wild camping — camp responsibly anywhere under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. Best pitches are along Loch Affric among the pines, near Alltbeithe, and in Gleann Lichd.
The Affric Kintail Way guidebook (Cicerone Press)(affiliate link) by Paul and Helen Webster covers the full route with mapping extracts and stage-by-stage descriptions. Worth carrying alongside the OS maps.
Getting there and logistics
To Drumnadrochit: Stagecoach bus 17 from Inverness (30 minutes). Inverness has ScotRail trains from Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen, plus Citylink coaches.
From Morvich: Citylink coaches on the A87 at Shiel Bridge (2 miles east) run between Inverness and Skye, 2-3 services daily. Shiel Bridge to Inverness takes approximately 1.5 hours.
Car logistics: Park in Drumnadrochit, walk the trail, bus from Shiel Bridge to Inverness, bus back to Drumnadrochit. Total return journey approximately 3 hours.
Baggage transfer: There is none. You carry everything. The remote middle section has no vehicle access.
Kit list for 4 days
You must be self-sufficient for the remote middle section:
- Rucksack — 50-65L for wild camping, 40-50L for hostel/bothy
- Tent, sleeping bag and mat — carry even if planning on Camban bothy
- Waterproof jacket and trousers
- Walking boots — broken in, waterproof
- Trekking poles — recommended for the bealach
- OS maps (Landranger 26 and 33) and compass
- GPS or phone with offline maps as backup
- Stove, fuel and cooking kit — no food available between Cannich and Morvich
- 4 days of food — no resupply on the route
- Water bottle and purification
- First aid kit — 10+ miles from the nearest road on middle days
- Midge head net and repellent — June to August, non-negotiable
Try it yourself
Our free Naismith's Rule Calculator
estimates walking time accounting for ascent — use it to plan realistic timings for the bealach day, where 10 miles with 500m of climbing and rough terrain takes longer than you expect.
No sign-up required.The Falls of Glomach detour
The Falls of Glomach are among the highest waterfalls in Britain — a 113m single drop into a narrow gorge, hidden in the hills between Glen Affric and Kintail. The detour adds approximately 5 miles and 400m of ascent to Day 3.
From the main trail in upper Gleann Lichd, a path branches to the Bealach na Sroine and descends to a viewpoint above the falls. The approach is steep and the gorge rim path requires a head for heights. In wet conditions, the rocks are slippery.
The falls are most impressive after rain. Allow 3-4 extra hours. This means starting early from Alltbeithe or accepting a late arrival at Camban. The detour is well-pathed and signed at the junction but is not part of the official Affric Kintail Way.
Frequently Asked Questions
How hard is the Affric Kintail Way?
Moderate — harder than the West Highland Way, significantly easier than the Cape Wrath Trail. The difficulty comes from the Bealach an Sgairne (518m, steep and exposed in cloud), the lack of escape routes on the middle days, and the need for self-sufficiency. If you can walk 14 miles with a loaded pack and navigate in hill fog, you are ready.
How long does the Affric Kintail Way take?
Most walkers take 4 days. Fast walkers do it in 3 by combining Days 3 and 4. A relaxed pace with the Falls of Glomach detour stretches to 5-6 days. Alltbeithe hostel availability often dictates the schedule.
Do I need to book Alltbeithe hostel in advance?
Yes. It has 24 beds and is the only bookable accommodation for 30 miles. In summer it fills months ahead. Book through the SYHA website as soon as your dates are confirmed. If full, your options are Camban bothy (free, first-come) or wild camping.
Can I do the Affric Kintail Way in winter?
Not recommended. The bealach carries snow and ice, daylight is too short for the longer stages, Alltbeithe closes, and the mountain path may be buried. Experienced winter mountaineers with full winter kit can do it, but it becomes a different proposition.
Which direction should I walk the Affric Kintail Way?
East to west (Drumnadrochit to Morvich). It puts the prevailing wind at your back, saves the most dramatic scenery for the final days, and makes logistics simpler — buses to Drumnadrochit from Inverness are more frequent than services from Morvich.
Related Articles
- West Highland Way Planning Guide — the trail most walkers complete before the Affric Kintail Way
- Cape Wrath Trail: Complete Planning Guide — the next step up in difficulty and remoteness
- The Essential Wild Camping Gear List for Scotland — full kit breakdown for multi-day wild camping
- Scottish Bothies for Beginners — free shelters including Camban bothy on the route
- Naismith's Rule Calculator — realistic timing for the mountain stages
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional instruction or safety guidance. The Affric Kintail Way crosses remote mountain terrain with no road access, no phone signal and no shelter for extended sections. The Bealach an Sgairne is an exposed mountain pass where conditions change rapidly. Always check the mountain weather forecast (MWIS) before setting out, carry appropriate navigation equipment, and plan stages according to your fitness and experience. Deer stalking takes place on surrounding estates mid-August to mid-October — check Heading for the Scottish Hills before your trip. OutdoorSCOT is not liable for any incidents arising from the use of this information.
Sources
- Affric Kintail Way — official trail website — route information and updates
- Scottish Youth Hostels Association — Alltbeithe hostel booking
- Forestry and Land Scotland — Glen Affric — NNR information
- Mountain Bothies Association — Camban bothy
- Heading for the Scottish Hills — deer stalking updates
- Mountain Weather Information Service — MWIS
- Ordnance Survey Maps — Ordnance Survey
- Scottish Outdoor Access Code — NatureScot